This week

The carte

Four courses, no choices, rewritten twice a week

What follows is roughly where the card stood after Thursday's market. By the time you sit down two of these will have been replaced, which is how the kitchen works and not a lapse.

To begin

  • Brandade, warm, with toast cut thick
  • Violet artichokes with lemon, in April and May only
  • A cold almond soup in July and August, and never otherwise

Then

  • Bull from the Camargue, stewed with olives, which takes five hours and is on the card whenever the butcher has it
  • Bream from Sète, grilled whole
  • A plate of what the market had, which in March is mostly leeks and is better than that sounds

To finish

  • Caillettes of fig and honey
  • Sheep's cheese from the Causses with a spoon of the apricot jam
  • Nothing at all, if you would rather, and nobody will press you